There are stand up and lay down styles of brush. The Pro motors use a lay-down style left and the HD motors use a stand-up right. The brush hoods on the two motors differ to accommodate the different brushes used. The spring pushes the brush into the commutator at the top of the armature inside the motor can.
The "comm" as we call it, short for commutator, is the contact point where current is transferred from the brushes and into the armature windings. Brushes are a wear item and should be checked often depending on the environment you drive in.
If there's lots of water and you frequently get your motor wet, you'll need to check the brushes for excessive wear. The comm is a wear item as well and should be inspected and cleaned frequently. You want a nice copper color and a smooth surface. If the comm is pitted, rusty or turning black these are all signs a cut may be needed on a comm lathe and that the brushes may be burnt or too short.
The armature holds the windings, which are lengths of wire s wrapped around each arm. Each wrap is called a "turn" and is how the motor ultimately is rated; really all you need to pay attention to when selecting.
A 30T motor has 30 wraps winds of wire around each arm. What's the difference between machine wound and hand wound? Machine wound motors are just that, wound by a machine and usually not wound as tight or precise as a hand wound. Hand wound armatures being wrapped precisely will usually contain less wire, resulting in lower resistance, and more power.
Pro armature left and HD armature right both differ in the wind type as well as the comm sizes and brush styles. The motor can has two magnets inside that surround the armature. As current is sent through each of the three winding arms, the armature is pulled and pushed toward the magnets in the can and your rig moves.
Being that the armature is a spinning part, the bearings need to be inspected, cleaned and oiled often. BB code is On. Smilies are On. Trackbacks are On.
Pingbacks are On. Refbacks are On. Forum Rules. All times are GMT The time now is PM. Contact Us - RCCrawler. Add Thread to del. RCCrawler Forums. User Name. Remember Me? Mark Forums Read. Thread Tools. Brushed motor break-in question When doing a water break in on new brushed motors, the procedure I read to do was hook it up and fully submerge in water and open the throttle trim just a bit and spin for about 20 min.
Re: Brushed motor break-in question depending on the motor, holmes hobbies motors dont need any break in as they are already broken in. Re: Brushed motor break-in question Which Holmes Hobbies brushed motor would be a good choice for my scx10?
Re: Brushed motor break-in question Hi, what about doing the slave motor break in procedure like described here PN Racing Motor Break In Kit also does the size of the motor matter? Re: Brushed motor break-in question Why not just drive it. Re: Brushed motor break-in question Thanks for clearing that up for me Eddie. Re: Brushed motor break-in question Nice writeup eddie. Brushed motor break-in question - Similar Threads. Dual brushed motor break in jig. Brushed motor break-in failure.
Run the motor, and hold it in your hand while you turn the throttle trim up until the motor is running at a nice, steady rpm. With your motor submerged in the water, let it run for about 10 minutes. As the motor runs in the water, the brushes will contour to the shape of the commutator and help the motor produce more efficient power back in your vehicle.
After the time is up, remove it from the water and the other electronics. Let it dry, put some oil on the bushings or bearings, and let it sit for a few hours. When you have a motor that can be disassembled, you can get in there and clean things up.
However, this process tends to be very involved. On these type of motors, the endbell comes off by removing the screws holding it in place. Once the screws are removed, start with the end from which the armature sticks out. Take your time and gently remove the endbell. You can now pull the armature out and wipe that clean.
You are also going to want to remove the bearing from the endbell and use motor spray to blast out the bearings. Add a couple of drops of oil on the bearings, reinstall the shims and spacers as they were before you took it apart, and reinstall the armature.
Lastly, reinstall the endbell and snug it up tightly. Give the motor a couple of spins by hand; it should spin fairly easily and feel clean and smooth. If this all checks out, wire it up and give it a little run test in your hand—your motor should now run nice and quietly. Crush a piece of paper between the gears and tighten it up. With the paper removed, your mesh will be perfect every time.
Put a piece of notebook paper in between the gears and tighten the motor. Once you pull out the paper, the teeth of the pinion gear should wiggle a very little bit in the teeth of the spur gear. Be sure the vehicle runs quietly after you reinstall the motor—this is a tell-tale sign of the condition of your gear mesh. If the vehicle is loud, the mesh is too tight and you need to reset the gear mesh.
A little bit of work can yield a lot more play time. Once your motor is clean and your mesh is all set, you get to go out and get it all dirty again!
The type of terrain you drive in will alter how often you should clean your motor. Your email address will not be published.
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